The Right Fencing Can Secure Your Dog

The most common type of boundary for a dog is a fence. But “fence” is a broad term, with many varieties in wood, cyclone fencing, wrought iron, plastic, mesh, stone etc.

Do you want fencing to keep your canine in? Remember that a fence is not a fail-safe device — many canines have learned to chew through, dig under, jump over, or otherwise defeat fences. Or maybe you want to keep your canine out of a particular area? Do you want your fencing to be an architectural design in your landscape, or to fade into the background? Remember most good fencing can be costly especially if you have a lot of area to fence in!

For safety purposes, consider the following: Will children in your neighborhood try to climb over a low fence after a ball? Will children taunt your dog by pushing sticks through the fence or throwing rocks on to your property? Will your canine bark endlessly when they see someone walk bye? Will you continue to check the fence for any developing weak spots?

Cyclone fencing is less expensive then most, and although not very attractive its usual silver, it may look better when painted black. Canines have trouble chewing through metal, but some dogs can climb the crisscrossed wires. Unless your fence is trenched and installed a foot or more below ground, your canine will easily dig underneath the fencing.

Wrought iron will add beauty to your yard, but it is extremely expensive. Check the design to see if your canine can sneak between the uprights. Almost all wrought iron fencing is installed with space between the bottom and the ground to help resist rust, not good for canines who are diggers.

Wood is the preferred material for fencing nine out of ten times. The design possibilities are unlimited. You can choose any height you want, the type of wood — from redwood to bamboo — and anything from solid to woven to openwork. But, remember, dogs will chew through wood, so you must be alert for any escape holes. And you must include a below-ground barrier of some sort, or digging is still a possibility.

Thanks to plastic you can have wood like fencing without all the up keep. Plastic fencing will not deteriorate in the elements and wouldn’t burn in the event of a fire. They aren’t as attractive a target for chewing. And with wood prices rising, the cost is about the same. Depending on the design, your canine may still be able to climb over, squeeze through, or dig under this type of fencing.

Brick fencing is pricey, but definitely solid. Canines can’t chew them, hard to climb, and bricks don’t deteriorate much over time. You can build the first rows below ground to stop your digging problem. This is an excellent option if you find brick appealing and can afford the hefty price tag.

Stone boundary fencing is rare, but stone or artificial stone borders on gardens within the yard will remind your dog to keep out. With some training, even a low stone border can be an effective “fence” around plants.

For temporary protection around your new plants, chicken wire is very cheap, easy to install, and though unattractive, will serve its purpose. Once your plants are established remove the wire, and supervise your dog’s behavior in the area.

Never think of fencing as “a necessary evil.” With some planning, it can both keep your canine safe and enhance the appearance of your home.

 

 

Finding A Friend A New Home

Fostering a canine is one of many ways you can help improve the lives of homeless canines. Most dog lovers are well aware of the canine overpopulation problem both nationally and internationally, there are millions of canines that are waiting in shelters for homes and sadly some will die in those shelters waiting for the happy home they truly deserve.

Shelters and rescue facilities would love to house every homeless dog, but this is impossible due to a lack of resources and space. Canines that would usually be euthanized due to lack of space can be spared through caring foster parents who are willing to open their home and hearts to a rescue canine in need of shelter and love.

A lot of homeless canines grew up in homes where they were well-loved family members. For some reason, these canines find themselves homeless and on their own. You can imagine how scary and stressful it is to go from a place where you are a well loved family member, surrounded by your family to a place where everyone and everything is unfamiliar. In a lot of these canines, stress causes a unwanted or self-destructive behavior.

A great solution for canines with kennel stress or other special needs is a foster home. Whelping mothers, young puppies, and senior dogs are very vulnerable to the shelter environment and are best suited in a quiet environment to raise young, grow, and age peacefully until a permanent family can be found. If you decide to become a foster parent, you provide these canines a chance at life, and may save them from the fate that many other canines suffer, euthanization while awaiting a new family.

  Becoming A Foster Care Provider

You’ve decided to become a canine foster parent. Providing foster care for canines will certainly be a rewarding experience, but can be a very emotional experience also. Sending your foster friend to his forever home is bittersweet, you will have to say goodbye to a friend, which hurts, but you are sending him to a place where he will be cherished and loved, his forever home.

Your first step will be visiting www.petfinder.com to find the rescue group nearest to you. If you what to foster a specific breed and are willing to branch out geographically, petfinder.com will be able to refer you to a number of breed-specific rescue groups. You will be able to find toy breed rescues, giant breed rescues, and organizations which focus specifically on senior, special needs, or puppy adoption and fostering.

When you find the rescue group that interests you, contact them and ask for an application for fostering. Review the application very carefully. If you have questions, make sure you ask! Who pays the vet bills? Who pays for the dog’s food, microchip, leashes, crate, etc.? Are there organization-wide meetings? If so, when and how often do they occur? Where will the canine meet prospective adopters and how much flexibility do you have in scheduling these meetings? Do you have any responsibility for training the dog and if so, to what level?

Many rescues groups require foster parents to have fenced-in yards. For some dogs, a foster parent may have to be home all day, or a home without cats or children.

A rescue group will likely require personal and veterinary references along with a your application and one or more telephone or in-person interviews, some groups will do a home inspection.

What If I Have A Pet

Communicable diseases from a shelter environment could be carried into your hpme where your pets may be infected. Talk to your veterinarian about recommended quarantine periods for new foster dogs, to keep your own pets safe!

Know Your Limits

Your homeowners insurance or city may have breed restrictions? Are you sure you have time to devote to a foster dog while giving your own pets the attention and care they need?

Are you OK with behavior problems, dealing with, counter surfing, pulling on leash, jumping on you and friends, inappropriate elimination, separation anxiety, barking? You should not accept a foster dog with behavior problems beyond your experience and knowledge.

What health problems are you willing to deal with? Medicating the dog frequently? Incontinence? Digestive disorders? Special dietary needs? What about a canine with a wheelchair?

Are you going to keep this canine well-groomed and sanitary? Do you require a foster canine that will be safe around children or other pets?

You’re Doing A Wonderful Thing

Fostering a dog or puppy is a wonderful and fulfilling opportunity; I have fostered and found homes for dogs that would have otherwise been put down. It is a wonderful feeling when a family comes along and loves your foster friend and he/she loves their new family. Most times it is a little sad to see your foster friend leave, you both become attached to each other and you know you will miss each other (if the new family lives close enough you can ask to visit now and again). The good thing is there is always another dog in need of a foster home so you will always be making new friends and always having that wonderful feeling knowing you have found another home for your homeless friend!

What makes a good Boarding Kennel?

That depends on what the dog owner is looking for. Sure, the good kennels are kept clean and well-ventilated, are protected from the weather; provide adequate space for large and small dogs, and guarantee medical attention if you’re canine gets sick in their care. Most good kennels offer 24-hour assistance with a person living on the kennel property.

However, all dog owners are not the same; owners spoil their canine in different ways.

Some canine owners love frills. Some owners prefer a kennel with “suites” not kennel runs, plush sleeping arrangements instead of just a blanket, and daily walks and play time with other dogs as well as roomy accommodations. Many owners don’t mind the average kennel for their canine as long as the basics are provided and the staff is kind to their canine.

Are you searching for a bare-bones type kennel that provides a run, daily feeding and some exercise, and a watchful eye for sickness? Or would you like a “doggy resort” where your canine will be walked and played with daily, provided plush bedding and doggie toys, with music piped into their kennels, and have a trainer brush-up on your canine’s obedience lessons?

Kennels run the gamut from dirty to average to luxurious. If this is the first time leaving your dog in a kennel, you better decide what you want from a kennel before setting an appointment. If your canine is a pampered pet and you will not forgive yourself if you send him/her to be caged for a week or two, you can hire a pet house sitter. Never expect a kennel or a pet sitter to give your canine the same care that you do. It doesn’t work that way even if they say they will! A pet house sitter, a person who comes to your home two or three times a day to walk your canine, play with her a bit, and make’s sure your dog has plenty of food and water, may be your best bet. Your pet sitter can also bring in the mail, water your plants, and even provide security checks.

If you choose a pet sitter, ask for references and ask friends in your area if they can recommend a sitter.


Types of kennels

 Kennels can be divided into two categories, kennels that provide basic care and those that offer the fancy frills

. Basic kennels usually

  • Have Indoor-outdoor runs or indoor runs and exercise time.
  • Hose the runs each day (canines are outside when inside runs are washed down, and inside when outside runs are washed).
  • Cleans with a disinfectant
  • Has very good ventilation.
  • Makes provisions for different types of diets.
  • Feeds your canine on its own schedule with its own food.
  • Provides bedding to keep your canine off the concrete floor.
  • Makes sure bedding is clean,
  • Gives necessary medications,
  • Contacts the dog’s own veterinarian if needed and gives a bit of extra attention to older canines.
  • Checks your canine several times daily to make sure they are safe and sound.
  • Requires that canines are current on their vaccinations, including Bordatella vaccination for kennel cough.
  • Should require that all canines are flea-free or be dipped for fleas before they are boarded.
  • Usually charges extra for giving medication to your pet and for a bath before your canine goes home.

Fancy frills kennels may include many or all of the following:

  • Grooming or bath before your canine goes home
  • Pick-up and delivery drop off
  • Daily exercise walks
  • Special housing for sick or elderly canines
  • Toys
  • Exercise areas for canines that can be penned together for short play times
  • A brush up on obedience training
  • Their own gift and supply shop
  • An examination when your dog is dropped off
  • Plush bedding
  • Visitation time with kennel staff in a lounge area.

Most canines do well in a kennel with indoor-outdoor runs, feedings twice daily, and a caring staff that pays close attention to their doggie guests. Most canines also do well in a kennel with indoor runs if they are walked twice daily. Fancy frills are for the owners, not the canine. Music, Exercise walks, structured playtime, plush bedding and blankets, and other amenities may relieve guilt from the owner for leaving his canine companion in the kennel, but they will always add to the cost.

When you have a idea which type of kennel (or pet sitter) you want to use, choose a few and start making calls. Make appointments with a few that meet your requirements and have accommodations when you need it. Then make a visit and look around.


Visit the Kennels on Your List

  1. Call to for visit to check out the kennel. Ask for a mid-week appointment; the better kennels are busy on Mondays and Fridays as canines come in or go home. Remember to check out the kennel before dropping your dog off!
  2. First impressions are very important. When arriving for your visit, check to see if the runs are clean — it’s impossible to keep every run clean all the time, so take that into consideration when doing your inspection.
  3. Take a deep breath when entering the kennel; the kennel should have a clean smell, not a smell of stale urine or old feces. If bad kennel smells waft into the office while you’re speaking with the owner or manager, you should go somewhere else. You will be able to tell the difference between a kennel that has urine and decay soaked into the woodwork and a clean with a run or two that was dirtied after the morning cleaning.
    • If the kennel yard is a mess and the building is in need of major repair, if the food and water bowls are dirty then cross that kennel off your list!
    • Take a peek into the kitchen where your canine’s meals will be prepared; it should be clean and the dog food should be in containers or in the refrigerator, etc.
    • Question the staff about feeding schedules, are there extra charges for giving heartworm pills or medications, or anything else you want to know about.
    • If the kennel is to your liking and it’s booked for the time you will be away, put your name on a waiting list and make a reservation for your second or third choice.

After a quick look around look specifically for:

  • Sanitized and clean-smelling kennel runs, hallways, feed storage and preparation areas, etc.;
  • Clean and appropriate bedding;
  • Excellent ventilation;
  • A caring and observant staff;
  • A breakdown of all costs
  • A list of required vaccinations (most kennels now require kennel cough vaccination).

Once you’ve crossed off the obviously inadequate kennels from your list, you have to decide the level of care and comfort you want for your canine, what is your spending budget, and are comfortable with the people who will be providing the care for your dog.


Always ask questions

Whether you are interested in the basics or some degree of fancy frills, never hesitate to ask questions about the care your canine will receive. Make sure you know if your canine will be boarded in a separate run, and that if you pay for a run, your canine will not crated because the kennel is overbooked. If your canine will be crated during part or all of their stay at the kennel check the exercise schedule and make sure your dog will be receiving adequate exercise time. If it’s important to that someone be on the kennel property all night, make sure this is the case.

Check the feeding schedules and if there will be extra charges if medications are given, or any other questions you may have.


Have a Talk with the Employee’s

Make sure you give the kennel the information necessary to properly care for your canine while you are gone. If your dog has ever bitten anyone, tell them. If your dog is an escape artist, tell them. Give them any and all information about your dog so there are no surprises

If your dog pulls while on a leash or if he barks incessantly tell them, there’s time to teach him some manners while you’re on vacation. An obedience class will help with the pulling problem, and trainers can help you’re your barking problem.

Make sure you drop off your canine and pick him up on time or notify your kennel of any change of plans.


Preparing Your Dog for Their Stay

  • Their health check, vaccinations, and heartworm medication should be up-to-date.
  • Check for fleas
  • Teach your canine to sit before being petted or fed so the kennel personal won’t have to worry about your dog darting out the gate or knocking over the food;
  • Teach your dog to walk quietly on a leash if the kennel staff will be taking your dog for a walk;
  • Socialize him/her to strangers, especially if she needs medications or grooming;
  • Make sure she’s accustomed to being crated in case your dog needs to be transported to the veterinarian or housed in a crate at the kennel.
  • If your dog has any health problems, is not housetrained well, has problems with men or other canines, is likely to trash the kennel run, or has any other problems, you should alert the kennel staff.
  • If the kennel doesn’t carry the food you use, make sure you bring along a supply that will last ’til you get back.
  • A few basic manners won’t hurt, either. Your canine should sit and stay when asked so the employee’s can open the kennel run to give her food and water, pick up feces, or give her medication. If she’s going to get a daily walk, she should be trained to walk without pulling on the leash. If your dog is supposed to be groomed or get a bath before you get home, make sure she’ll stand quietly in the tub and won’t try to bite the groomer who trims her nails.

Dropping your canine off

  • Exercise your dog before you turn her over to the kennel staff.
  • Leave your children at home, put your canine in the car, and drive to the kennel.
  • Walk into the kennel office, give your dog a firm pat, tell her you’ll see her soon and let her go. Hugs and tears will stress your canine. She’s not going to forget you in a week, and she’s not going to hate you for leaving her home while you have fun.

Make sure you bring

  • Food if your dog is on a special diet;
  • Up-to-date shot records;
  • Heartworm preventive and any other medications your dog requires along with a dosage schedule;
  • An emergency number you or a family member can be reached at besides the veterinarian;
  • Your canines behavior history (don’t let the kennel staff find out the hard way that your dog bites when frightened, digs at concrete ’til his paws get bloody, howls incessantly, climbs out of his run, fence fights, etc.) Most kennels will handle difficult dogs if they know up front what their problems are.

If you are coming back earlier or later than expected, don’t forget to call the kennel about your change of plans.


Successful boarding of a dog should include homework to select the right kennel; good canine manners and socialization; honesty with the kennel staff and no guilt for leaving your friend behind while his family enjoys a well-earned respite from daily life.

No matter when the vacation is scheduled, start now to prepare.

If you make an informed choice of a boarding kennel and follow these common sense suggestions for using the services, your experience should be a good one.

 

 

Top Dog

Guess who’s still America’s favorite canine, you guessed it the Labrador retriever. The Lab continues to dominate as America’s top dog, but there is a floppy-eared, vertically challenged canine nipping at its heels or paws.

The Lab has an unbroken string as America’s most popular canine breed in new statistics released by the American Kennel Club, claiming the number one spot for the 21st consecutive year, based on AKC registration statistics. But the beagle rolled into the No. 3 spot, replacing the Yorkshire terrier. The beagle has a great personality and loves outdoor activities making it a great family dog.

The always trusty and a fan favorite German shepherd remains the No. 2 pick on the new AKC list of most loved canines, I have to say the German Shepard is one of my all time favorites, between their size and beauty they are a real head turner! Other large dogs continue to move up the list — the stick-fetching golden retriever moved up from No. 5 to No. 4, while the rottweiler makes its first ever Top 10 appearance.

The rottweiler nudged out the shih tzu in making the Top 10, continuing a trend that has seen the smaller breeds becoming less popular. Rotts love their families, but it is important that they are socialized like any other breed so that they get along with strangers and other canines. Rotts are naturally protective, and that’s what makes them a great family dog and guard dog.

The emergence of the big breeds also signals a change in popularity over some of the smaller dog breeds. Years back, theChihuahuas, Pekingese and miniature pinschers were the AKC most popular breeds among Americans, but these smaller breeds have declined in popularity in recent years.

The Yorkshire terrier dropped from No. 3 to No. 5 on this year’s list, and the dachshund declined from No 8 to No. 9. But the most popular and recognizable canine from 1960 to 1982 the fluffy poodle is making a comeback. The poodle moved up from No. 9 to No. 8 on the AKC list this year. Also in the Top 10 finishers is the English bulldog (No. 6) they’re are excellent family canines — gentle, protective and easy to groom.

And the boxer (No. 7). The Boxer has held steady in the middle of the popularity list for the past ten years; never count this lovable breed out. Boxers love their owners, especially children, and are both protective and patient.

The AKC has also seen a rise in popularity in the English setters, Irish setters, Irish red-and-white setters and Gordon setters all made climbs in registrations in the past year. And while the Yorkshire terrier dropped down in the top 10, other types of terriers — Bedlington terriers, border terriers and Dandie Dinmont terriers — all rose in popularity.

But as if to show fox hunting isn’t as popular as it once was, the scent-driven coonhounds dropped the farthest on this year’s AKC list. The black and tan coonhound, bluetick coonhound and redbone coonhound all dropped sharply in registrations, according to the AKC.

 

Group Lessons vs Private Lessons

Group Lessons

If you are trying to decide between group dog lessons or private lessons maybe I can help you decide with this article. Group lessons are just that, a dog trainer teaches in a group of usually 3 to 5 dogs with their owners by their side. The trainer will teach the dog owners how to train and work with their dog. There are all different types of group classes; you have puppy class, obedience class, advanced obedience class, therapy class and so on. In a group class you do not receive one on one training but with a class of3 to 5you still receive excellent training and guidance. A good trainer will give each dog and owner enough attention during class to make sure each dog is receiving the proper training. Dog owners are taught during class the proper training of their dog and how to continue the training at home. Many dog owners choose group lessons over private solely due to the difference in the training price. Group lessons usually cost $125 to $150 for a six week course, where as private lessons run from $500 up to $1500 for a six week course. As you can see private lessons are more expensive but your dog is receiving one on one training. Some owners find a group class fun, they meet new friends and their dog gets to socialize with their new canine friends. The down side to a group class is that you don’t know what type of dogs will be in your class; some dogs can disrupt a group class and take away from your canines training. A trainer may explain to a dog owner that their dog needs private lessons because their dog will not do well in a group setting due to their dog’s aggressive behavior towards the other dogs in the group. If your dog needs training and you don’t have the money for private lessons I recommend group lessons for sure. I recommend you take a look at different trainers and watch a couple of their classes without you dog, watch the trainers techniques and see if the trainer has control of the class and is giving enough attention to each dog and their owner. It is important for you and your dog to feel comfortable in a group class, if you don’t you’re probably not going to get the most out of it and you may decide not to finish the lesson which is not good for either you or your dog.

 

Private Lessons

Private lessons are just that private, just the trainer, you and your dog. A trainer should come to your home once a week and spend about an hour with each training session. Private lessons are great way to get the training you need for your canine if you have the time to spend with your canine to accomplish any and all goals you have set for you and your canine. With each lesson the trainer will review the skills from the previous lesson and teach a new skill for the following week. With private lessons a trainer will teach you how to train and work with your own dog. They should teach you how to successfully take your dog through all three phases of training your dog to ensure that you have a reliable, well rounded dog. With private lessons you are required to do “homework” through out the week to make sure that you are getting the results you are looking for. During private lessons the trainer should answer any questions or concerns you may have with the training or your dog. As I said before private lessons are more expensive, usually costing around $500 for a six week course. You must decide which is right for you and your budget.

Tips For Choosing A Group Dog Training Class

Canine training is a physical skill. You can learn much faster and more effectively by finding a good group class. An excellent teacher will make adjustments based on your canines needs. A video or book has no way of making adjustments and good teacher will give you instant feedback. There’s no feedback from a video or book. A group class will provide you and your canine a great opportunity to work with distractions in a controlled setting. A book or video has no distractions or controlled setting.

This is my way of evaluating a group training class. Visit the first week and the last week of a group class. Be sure to stay for the entire class each time.  Make sure you note how many dog owners are there for the first week and see how many are there the last week. Check the behavior of the canines and the attitude of the canines and owners. How does the first week and the last week compare? Has there been an obvious improvement?  Do the owners and canines look happy to be there? Listen to the owners gathering before and after class. Are there gatherings? Do the dog owners actually talk to one another? How are the canines behaving? Are you comfortable with the way the instructor is teaching the class?

The group class is only where the owner learns how to train his/her dog. If you don’t continue the training at home it won’t do much good. A couple of sessions of five or ten minutes of training a day will make a big difference. Many of the training commands can be worked on with your ordinary household activities. A command is nothing more that teaching your canine the meaning of your words. Teaching the meaning of words involves showing your canine the meaning which includes using it in many different situations.  Whether you want to call them teaching words, or teaching commands, when your canine gets loose and is running into traffic you want a word that will make your dog stop.

Repetition is crucial. You can’t ask your canine to do something and not follow through. All the training that you and your dog have learned in the group lessons must be continued at home, if you don’t your dog will go back to the bad habits you were trying to correct in the group lessons.

What kind of training is best for you? People and canines differ.  Putting a label on a certain method doesn’t do much to help you evaluate whether it is best for your canine. Instead you should observe its effect on the canine.

Most of my canine’s socially polite behavior is taught by adding it into my everyday life, instead of very formalized training session. I continue to take classes because there is always something new to learn, and a group class is an excellent setting with controlled distractions, and because someone else will always see better what is going on than can the person involved.

I won’t take any class in which the teacher either spends a great deal of time denigrating other training methods, or has zero flexibility in their training method. If I don’t like the body language and behavior that my canine is telling me

Finding a good group class isn’t hard, ask your local vet, friends, neighbors and even dog owners at your doggie park. The ASPCA and local shelters can also be useful.

 


Group classes and private lessons each have their own place. Whichever is right for you make sure you watch at least one lesson before signing up for a class. If a trainer doesn’t let you observe their class you should probably find a different trainer.

Keep an eye on the trainer’s interaction with canines and people. How do the canines react? How do the owners react? The class atmosphere should be serious and fun. If while observing a class the dog owners look unhappy stay away and look elsewhere.

What kind of training does the trainer have? Does the trainer attend seminars and take continued education classes? A trainers trainer will give you a good idea as to style and method. Watch out for trainers who have limited breadth -especially if their experience is narrow when it comes to different dog breeds, ages or origins of canines. A dog trainer who has experience only with well bred canines may not be prepared to deal with the needs of the rescue dogs.

What dog training organizations does the trainer belong to? Does the organization offer certification? What is required? When a certification doesn’t require a significant period of hands-on experience the trainer may have limitations.

Make sure you have solid goals. Competition obedience may not be the best selection for a well mannered canine. Dog manners classes will not prepare you for competition obedience. If competing is you goal make sure your trainer is experienced and has had success in that area.

No trainer is a know it all; beware of any trainer who brags that they can solve your problem no matter what it is. If you’re looking to address a specific behavior problem ask the trainer for references to others with similar problems that trainer has helped. Understand that a trainer can not tell you exactly what the remedial program might be but get a general outline. Don’t be afraid to ask any and all questions after all it’s your money.

The best trainers are flexible, observant and patient. A good trainer should ask you what your training goals are, and how you want to accomplish them.

 

 

Planning for Your New Puppy

Great you’re getting a new puppy or dog, your puppy will keep you busy for the next month or so and drive you a little bit crazy. The most important thing to do is plan in advance and have your home ready for the arrival of your new pet. So here is a list that may help you to prepare for your new family member!

The Basics

Travel crate: If you plan on crate training your dog or not having a travel crate is a good idea, there will be times you must take your dog to the veterinarian, or maybe traveling on vacation.

Food and water bowls: If your new family member is a puppy, make sure the bowls are low and shallow. Tip-proof bowls work really well with puppies, too. When your puppy starts to mature you will have to change bowls to accommodate their size.

Food: If your new family member is a puppy make sure buy only puppy food. If you’re not sure what types of puppy food to buy don’t be afraid to ask the people at your local pet store for recommendations? A high quality dog food is your best bet; it will help your puppy grow into a healthy mature canine.

Collar: Make sure the collar fits comfortably, not too tight or loose. Again don’t be afraid to ask for help at your pet store, in most cases you are allowed to bring your dog with you to the store and you will be able to try the collar on in the store!

Leash: A six-foot leash is a good length. Make sure you choose the right strength and thickness for your canine. You would not use the same leash for a poodle as you would for a German Sheppard.

ID tag: An ID tag is very important, if your dog runs off and gets lost this is usually the only way for someone to get in touch with their owner. Make sure you have your dogs name and your phone number engraved on the tag.

Grooming Supplies: Your puppy will benefit from a good weekly brushing and it’s a wonderful way to have fun and bond with your puppy.

Housebreaking supplies: Your new puppy will have accidents, so make sure you have good cleaning supplies on hand. They sell special cleaning products for dogs that may have an accident on a rug or floor. Again check your pet store and ask their advice.

Veterinarian: Make sure you find a good Vet, ask family, friends and neighbors for a recommendation. Make an appointment within the first few days of bringing your new puppy home, so your vet can check for worms, other health conditions, and start her vaccination regimen.

The Extras

Obedience classes: Taking your new puppy to a trainer is a good idea, every dog can benefit from learning all the basic obedience skills. If your dog picks up some bad habits at a young age it will be much harder to break those habits down the road!

Puppy treats: Treats are perfect for rewarding your dog when you’re working on obedience. Or for when they have just been overly well behaved.

Toys: Chew toys are very important to help satisfy your puppy’s teething needs. Teaching your dog to retrieve is a fun game for you and your dog so look at purchasing a few balls, but be sure the ball is not so small that your dog will choke on it.

Sour apple spray: This is an excellent product to use on spots your puppy loves to chew on. It’s a terrific deterrent for any puppy that has chewing problems.

Baby gates: If you want to keep your puppy in certain areas of your home then a doggie gate is the answer. A puppy may have accidents and or be a little wild at their age so keeping them contained for a while till they know the rules may be a good idea.

Dog house: If your dog is spending any time outdoors, he’ll love having his own little dog house. Put a few chew toys and a cozy blanket in it, and your dog will love having his own little home.

Doggie door: If you have a gated yard a doggie door is a good idea. Training your canine to use a doggie door when he needs to go out makes life much easier for you and your puppy.

Clothing: If you have very cold weather where you live you may want to buy a doggie sweater, keeping your dog warm in very cold weather will keep him/her healthy.

Good luck with your new puppy and don’t forget to give him/her lots of hugs, kisses, and most of all LOVE!!!

 

 

The Proper Way to Feed Your Puppy

If it is your job to care for puppies in the first few months of being born, you must to be prepared to wean them from their diet of mom’s milk to puppy food found at your local pet store. We can help you tell when and how it’s done; we also include some important info, in these easy to follow tips:

Newborn canines receive all their nutrition from their mother’s milk for the first four weeks of their life. Their mother’s milk is 100% perfect for their all their needs, so you don’t have to feed them any other food. If the mother dog should become sick or doesn’t produce enough milk, if the puppies are orphans you may have to feed the puppies a commercial milk replacement. If you are in this situation, contact your veterinarian for his/her opinion on what product and feeding procedures should be taken.
Puppies usually start eating puppy food when they are around three or four weeks old. Make sure you start with small amounts, and gradually increase the amount of food.
Puppies will sometimes play with their food at first, but they catch on in a hurry and figure out what to do with it! When the puppies are completely weaned at seven to eight weeks of age, they should be eating their puppy food consistently.
Puppies need around 2 times the energy intake of adult canine and, depending on their breed, will need to consume a food that contains 25 and 30 percent protein.
Smaller breeds of canine, those who weigh 20 pounds or less when fully grown, will usually reach mature body weight in nine to twelve months. As puppies, you can feed them free-choice. When food is readily available, almost all small-breed canines will develop good eating habits and in most cases not become overweight. But if you have other canines around, it’s best to feed your small-breed canine by the portion control method.
Most medium-breed puppies that mature to 20 – 50 pounds and all large or giant breed puppies that mature to 50 pounds or larger are best fed with the portion-control method.
Over eating could lead to consuming too many calories, growing too fast and develop bone growth problems. The most common signs of bone growth disease include bowing of the front legs. Many times, these signs are misdiagnosed as calcium deficiency. Radiographs are most important for an accurate diagnosis.
Never overfeed a puppy in an attempt to speed up a puppy’s growth rate. Always remember, the mature size of a canine is determined genetically, not by how fast a canine grows. Controlled feeding and a balanced diet specifically for large and giant breed puppies makes for optimal skeletal development. Aim for a slower rate of growth with large and giant breed puppies.
It is perfectly fine to feed your puppy treats, but make sure that treats make up no more than 5% of your puppy’s daily nutrient intake. The rest of your puppies diet should come from a high-quality puppy food.

 

 

 

Pros and Cons of Pet Insurance

Lets face it dogs can be very costly. Even if your canine seems to be very healthy, with age, your dog will definitely run into some medical issues at some point. When the end is near, dog owners know just how costly it can be going to the vet or animal hospital.

If you own a canine, you’ve probably considered whether or not to buy pet insurance. Just like health insurance that you and I have, these policies help with the cost of expensive medical treatment should your canine become sick and need medical care. In some cases it may mean the difference between having your canine for a few more years versus euthanasia.

In Europe it is common for pet owners to carry pet insurance, but pet owners in the U.S. are less likely to do so , statistics show that about a quarter of a million of our more than 130 million cat and canine owners carry pet insurance.

Should you invest in pet insurance? You must consider the pros and cons of pet insurance policies before you make a final decision.

The most common vet visits are for skin allergies and ear infections-which usually cost around $95 for treatment-to benign tumors, which a vet might bill $300 to analyze. Not cheap but still affordable. With new technology and advanced medical treatments, however, that has really raised the cost of pet healthcare. Canines are regularly undergoing chemotherapy and radiation for cancer treatment and MRIs for screening–at a price of $1,000 to more than $5,000.

In the coming year, Americans will spend an estimated $9.4 billion on their pets healthcare, up from $8.7 billion a year ago, according to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association. Canine owners will be charged an average of $211 for a basic vet visit, up from $156 in 2000.

To help with their pets healthcare, more owners are purchasing pet health insurance. The industry leader: Brea, Calif.-based Veterinary Pet Insurance . VPI controls an estimated 80 percent of the U.S. pet insurance market, with more than 392,000 active policies, up from around 36,000 policies in 1998. Other insurers include Pet Care Pet Insurance and PetsHealth Care Plan.

Pet health plans are similar to healthcare insurance you and I carry. They include deductibles, annual premiums, limits on pre-existing conditions, and exclusions for hereditary defects. There are co pays for diagnostic testing, Veterinary visits, prescriptions, X-rays, lab fees, and hospitalization, as well as surgical procedures. Add-on riders can be bought to cover physical exams and dental cleanings.

You are allowed to pick your own vet, and then file claims directly to the insurance company. Premiums are based on where you live, age of the pet and breed. Monthly premiums for canines, for instance, typically run $15 to $40. Most health plans offer discounts for insuring more than one pet.

Is pet health insurance worth it in the long run? For most of us, pet insurance will probably cost more than it will save. As with insurance products, from auto to homeowners, you’re betting that your total vet bills will exceed the amount you’ve paid in premiums and other costs.

Pet insurance premiums can range from $2,000 to $5,000 over a pet’s average life time. For example, VPI policyholders pay a $50 per incident deductible and are reimbursed for up to 90 percent of the vet bill, within the limits of the plan’s benefit allowance schedule. Other pet insurance companies have deductibles as high as $100, and coverage that ranges from 70 percent to 100 percent of allowable charges.

Consumer Reports Money Adviser recently produced an analysis of nine different plans using a 10-year-old beagle as a subject. Even after several emergency-room visits and other costly vet visits, Consumer Reports determined the coverage wasn’t worth the money.

We recommend pet owners do the math before getting insurance. Figure out how much your basic vet costs will be first and set aside some money for emergencies. If you buy pet insurance, make sure the monthly costs don’t exceed the amount of your basic vet costs.

Whether you buy pet insurance or not, the American Animal Hospital Association suggests preparing financially for veterinary care in some way. This could mean a credit card, a savings account, an emergency fund or insurance.

Our advice to you is to come up with a plan, whether to buy insurance or put money away in an emergency savings account but do come up with a plan, its heartbreaking to have to make a decision to euthanize an animal not based on the pet’s best interest but because of the financial decision of the owner.

Kennel Cough

 What Do You Know About Kennel Cough?

Kennel cough, the common name that is given to infectious canine tracheobronchitis is a highly contagious respiratory disease among canines. As the name of the disease suggests, it is typified by inflammation of the trachea and bronchi. Kennel cough is found throughout the world and is known to infect a high percentage of canines at least once in their lifetime. It is also medically referred to as tracheobronchitis and Bordetella. Small puppies can suffer the most severe complications that can result from kennel cough, since they have an underdeveloped immune system that is still becoming stronger. Also at high risk are older canines, which have decreased immune capabilities due to their age, and pregnant bitches, which also have lowered immunity to infections.

 Kennel Cough Symptoms!

A repetitious dry cough that has a “honking” sound is the main clue your canine has kennel cough. In almost all cases your canine will seem healthy except for the cough. Your canine will usually eat, play and run around as normal except for the cough, but don’t be alarmed if your dog gags and sometimes coughs up a white, foamy phlegm—this is a sign that is often worse after exercise, or if your dog gets excited or pulls against her collar. Canines may even develop a light fever and nasal discharge.

 What To Do if You Think Your Dog Has Kennel Cough?

If you think that there is a chance that your canine has kennel cough and you have other canines in your house isolate the infected canine from all other dogs in your home and as soon as possible take your dog to the veterinarian.

 Ways A Dog May Catch Kennel Cough?

Canines may be infected with kennel cough in a variety ways. It can spread through aerosols in the air, directly from canine to canine, or from germs on a contaminated object. Areas that have poor air circulation can spread the disease, maybe a kennel or animal shelter, for example, or from direct contact with another dog while waiting in a vets office, canine training class or drinking water at a doggie park. A good kennel will not board a canine without proof of their recent vaccination against parainfluenza and bordetella, these are the main causes of kennel cough.

 What Canines Are Prone to Kennel Cough?

In most cases canines that have frequent contact with other canines, such as dogs that go to doggie parks regularly. Young puppies whose immune systems are not fully developed and older dogs whose immune system my not be as strong as it used to be. Also unvaccinated dogs are at a very high risk so make sure your dog is up to date on their shots.

 Kennel Cough Prevention?

Having your dog up to date on his/her vaccinations is the best way to prevent kennel cough. If you board your dog on a regular basis make sure the kennel only boards dogs with up to date vaccinations, if they board your dog without proof of his/her shoots take your dog else ware to be safe. If you take your dog to a doggie park and hear and other dogs coughing continuously leave the park immediately. Also bring a portable water bowl, you can find them online they are a combination water bottle/bowl this will stop your dog from drinking any water at the park that may have become contaminated from another dog.

 

 Treating Kennel Cough?

Go to your veterinarian if your canine develops a cough. A lot of times a vet will tell to simply let kennel cough run its course and heed the following:

  • Isolate your canine from any other canines that may be in your home.
  • A humidifier or vaporizer may provide some relief. The steam may help soothe their irritated breathing passages.
  • Avoid exposing her to cigarette smoke or other noxious, irritating fumes.
  • Cough Medicine or antimicrobial can be prescribed by your vet; he will be able to determine what will be helpful to your dog.
  • If your canine pulls against his/her collar while walking, change to  a harness until the kennel cough subsides.
  • Make sure your canine is eating, drinking and in a stress-free environment.

 How Long Does it Last?

Kennel cough will gradually decrease and be gone in around three weeks. Young puppies, elderly dogs and other immunocompromised canines may take upwards of six weeks or more to recover. In smaller cases, dogs may remain infectious for longer periods of time even after the symptoms have gone away.

 Should We Go Back To The Vet?

In most cases you should see some improvement in your canine’s condition within about a week, but keep track on how long the symptoms last. If your canine has nasal discharge, is having trouble breathing, wouldn’t eat or seems lethargic, take him/her to your vet immediately. A serious case of kennel cough can turn into pneumonia if untreated.